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BIODIESEL

Singer
Willie Nelson is an energy exec promoting his own brand of biodiesel.
His "Biowillie" -- and other vegetable-based fuels -- can be
used in any dieselmobile. Here's how.
1.
Run straight biodiesel, or use it interchangeably with traditional diesel.
2.
Mix traditional diesel and biodiesel with no modifications. Diesel-powered
cars and light trucks typically use 20 percent biodiesel. Simply pour
it into the tank along with diesel from the pump.
3.
Install a DIY conversion kit. The kits, which cost from $750 to $4,000,
let your diesel run on 100 percent veggie oil as a separate fuel source.
The kits (www.greasecar.com, www.greasel.com, and www.frybrid.com)
include a second tank for the oil and a separate fuel line to switch from
diesel to vegetable oil.
< learn how to make
your own biodiesel >
Currently,
6% of Europe's electricity generation is from renewable sources. If they
wanted it to be 100% by 2025, they should expand renewable energy generation
by about 15% per year, every year, compared to other power sources.

this
chart was found at: http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/howitsmade
1.
Pour Oil into Processor
2.
Heat Oil to 120º F
3.
Check Titration Level ( Titration=The
process, operation, or method of determining the concentration of a substance
in solution by adding to it a standard reagent of known concentration
in carefully measured amounts until a reaction of definite and known proportion
is completed, as shown by a color change or by electrical measurement,
and then calculating the unknown concentration. )
To determine the correct
amount of lye required, a titration must be performed on the oil being
transesterified.
IMPORTANT: The lye must be dry -- keep it away from water, store it in
an airtight container.
-
Make up a solution of one gram of lye to one liter of distilled water.
Make sure it dissolves completely. This sample is then used as a reference
tester for the titration process. It's important not to let the sample
get contaminated, it can be used for many titrations.
- Mix
10 milliliters of isopropyl alcohol in a small container with a 1 milliliter
sample of WVO -- make sure it's exactly 1 milliliter. Take the WVO titration
sample from the reaction vessel after it's been warmed up and stirred.
- Add
to this solution 2 drops of phenolphthalein, an acid-base indicator
that's colorless in acid and red in base.
IMPORTANT: Phenolphthalein has a shelf life of about a year, it is very
sensitive to degradation by light so after a while it will start giving
erroneous readings.
- Using
a graduated eye dropper (with increments marked in tenths of milliliters)
or some other calibrated instrument (from medical supply outlets), while
carefully keeping track of the amounts, drop measured amounts of the
lye/water solution a couple of tenths of milliliters at a time into
the WVO/isopropyl/phenolphthalein solution.
- Follow
each drop with vigorous stirring of the solution. In cold weather the
WVO might congeal and not work so you might need to do the titration
in a heated room. If conditions are right eventually the solution turns
pink (magenta), and stays pink for 10 seconds. This is the indicator
color for a pH range of 8-9. It's important to find the exact amount,
to just reach this pH without dropping in too much!
It's a good idea to do this entire process more than once to ensure
that your number is correct. Depending on the type of WVO, how hot it
got in the fryer, what was cooked in it and how long it was used, the
amount of lye/water solution needed to titrate it is usually 1.5 to
3 milliliters. You can also use litmus paper or a digital pH tester
instead of the phenolphthalein.
-
The next step is to determine the amount of lye needed for the reaction.
Take the number of milliliters derived from the titration and multiply
by the number of liters of WVO to be transesterified.
There is one more thing to be included in the calculation. Every liter
of neat vegetable oil (fresh -- never been cooked) needs 3.5 grams of
lye for the reaction. So for every liter of WVO to be transesterified
add an additional 3.5 grams of lye.
- The
first few times you do this process or if you're planning on transesterifying
a lot of WVO it is a good practice to first try out your lye amounts
on a 1 liter batch in a kitchen blender. This works really well and
you don't need to heat up the WVO too much, just enough so it will spin
well in the blender. Blenders are very thorough at mixing the ingredients
so heating is not as critical.
- Start
by mixing up the lye and methanol in a blender (one that will never
be used for food again). First make sure the blender and all utensils
used are dry. Forming the exothermal sodium methoxide polar molecule
will heat up the blender container a bit. Keep mixing until all the
lye has been dissolved.
- Once
the sodium methoxide is prepared, add to the blender 1 liter of WVO.
Make certain all your weights and volumes are precise. If you're unsure
of the titration result numbers then use 6-6.25 grams of lye per liter
of used WVO, or 3.5 grams for fresh vegetable oil. Blender batches need
only be run for about 15-20 minutes for separation to be completed before
switching off. The settling takes some time to complete. The solution
can be poured from the blender into another container right after switching
off the blender.
It is good to do a few batches with varying amounts of lye recorded
so later when checking results one can choose the lye quantity that
did the best job. (When too much lye is used the result can be a troublesome
gel that is tough to do anything with. When not enough lye is used the
reaction does not go far enough so some unreacted WVO will be mixed
with the biodiesel and glycerine. This will form three levels with biodiesel
on top above unreacted WVO with glycerine on the bottom. If there is
too much water in the WVO it will form soaps and settle right above
the glycerine forming a fourth level in the container. This layer is
not too easy to separate from the unreacted WVO and glycerine layers.)
4.
Mix Lye and Methanol in Separate Container
- You
can get lye at hardware stores, or from soapmakers' suppliers (try online).
KOH lye works better than NaOH. Don't use Drano or ZEP drain-cleaners
or equivalents with blue or purple granules or any-coloured granules,
it's only about half NaOH and it contains aluminium, it won't work for
biodiesel. Shake the container to check it hasn't absorbed moisture
and coagulated into a useless mass, and make sure to keep it airtight.
-
For methanol, you can use "DriGas" fuel antifreeze from an
automotive store. One type of DriGas is methanol, another is isopropanol,
make sure to get the methanol one. Also try "stove fuel" from
hardware stores or home centres (but check the contents to make sure
it's pure methanol, it could also be "white gas", which is
gasoline and doesn't work), or try a chemicals supply company. You need
to be quick when measuring out the lye because it very rapidly absorbs
water from the atmosphere and water interferes with the biodiesel reaction.
Measure the lye out into a handy-sized lightweight plastic bag on the
scales (or even do the whole thing entirely inside a big clear plastic
bag), then close the lid of the container firmly and close the plastic
bag, winding it up so there's not much air in it with the lye and no
more air can get in. Have exactly the same kind of bag on the other
side of the scale to balance the weight, or adjust the scale for the
weight of the bag.)
-
How much to use. NaOH must be at least 96% pure, use exactly 3.5 grams.
If you're using KOH it depends on the strength. If it's 99% pure (rare)
use exactly 4.9 grams (4.90875). If it's 92% pure (more common) use
5.3 grams (5.33). If it's 85% pure (also common) use 5.8 grams (5.775).
Any strength of KOH from 85% or stronger will work
-
Measure out 200 ml of methanol and pour it into the half-litre HDPE
container via the funnel. Methanol also absorbs water from the atmosphere
so do it quickly and replace the lid of the methanol container tightly.
Be sure to work at ordinary room temperature and keep the methanol at
arm's length, so you won't be exposed to dangerous fumes.
- Carefully
add the lye to the HDPE container via the second funnel. Replace the
bung and the screw on the cap tightly
-
Shake the container a few times -- swirl it around rather than shaking
it up and down. The mixture gets hot from the reaction. If you swirl
it thoroughly for a minute or so five or six times over a period of
time the lye will completely dissolve in the methanol, forming sodium
methoxide or potassium methoxide. As soon as the liquid is clear with
no undissolved particles you can begin the process.
- The
more you swirl the container the faster the lye will dissolve. With
NaOH it can take from overnight to a few hours to as little as half-an-hour
with lots of swirling (but don't be impatient, wait for ALL the lye
to dissolve). Mixing KOH is much faster, it dissolves in the methanol
more easily than NaOH and can be ready for use in 10 minutes.
5.
Pour Solution into Processor / 6. React Oil By Mixing
Using a blender:
-
Pre-heat the oil to 130 deg F and pour it into the blender.
-
With the blender still switched off, carefully pour the prepared methoxide
from the HDPE container into the oil.
- Secure
the blender lid tightly and switch on. Lower speeds should be enough.
Blend for at least 20 minutes.
Using a mini-processor:
-
Proceed with processing as above, maintain temperature at 130 deg F,
process for one hour.
7. Allow
Oil To Separate
-
As soon as the process is completed, pour the mixture from the blender
or the mini-processor into the 2-litre PET bottle for settling and screw
on the lid tightly. (As the mixture cools it will contract and you might
have to let some more air into the bottle later.)
-
Allow it to settle for 12-24 hours.
-
Darker-coloured glycerine by-product will collect in a distinct layer
at the bottom of the bottle, with a clear line of separation from the
pale liquid above, which is the biodiesel. The biodiesel varies somewhat
in colour according to the oil used (and so does the by-product layer
at the bottom) but usually it's pale and yellowish (used-oil biodiesel
can be darker and more amber). The biodiesel might be clear or it might
still be cloudy, which is not a problem. It will clear eventually but
there's no need to wait.
8. Remove Glycerin Layer
-
Carefully decant the top layer of biodiesel into a clean jar or PET
bottle, taking care not to get any of the glycerine layer mixed up with
the biodiesel. If you do, re-settle and try again.**Before you wash
the biodiesel, perform a wash-test.
-
Put 150 ml of unwashed biodiesel (settled for 12 hours or more, with
the glycerine layer removed) in a half-litre glass jar. Add 150 ml of
water, screw the lid on tight and shake it up and down violently for
10 seconds or more. Then let it settle. The biodiesel should separate
from the water in half an hour or less, with amber biodiesel on top
and milky water below. This is quality fuel, a completed product with
minimal contaminants. Wash it, dry it and use it with confidence.
-
But if it turns into something that looks like mayonaisse and won't
separate, or if it only separates very slowly, with a creamy white layer
sandwiched between water and biodiesel, it's not quality fuel and your
process needs improvement. Either you've used too much catalyst and
made soap (better titration), or a poor conversion has left you with
half-processed mono- and diglycerides, fuel contaminants that act as
emulsifiers (better titration, try more methanol, better agitation,
longer processing time, better temperature control), or both too much
catalyst and poor conversion.
- Whichever,
you're headed for washing problems. Super-gentle washing techniques
might avoid the problems, but you'll still be left with poor-quality
fuel laced with contaminants that can cause injector coking and engine
damage and they can't be washed out.
-
If you have an emulsion any thicker than the normal "paper thin"
interface layer between oil and water, the batch should be retreated.
Retreat as with fresh oil, with the standard 3.5 g of lye per litre
of oil but using only 100 ml methanol per litre of oil.
-
Bubble-washing is also gentle, and it's worth repeating the test with
some washed fuel after bubble-washing -- it should separate from the
water cleanly within a few minutes. Also try the Methanol test, see
below.
9.
Wash Biodiesel
If it passes the wash-test then wash the rest of the biodiesel.
- For
washing use the two 2-litre PET bottles in succession, with half a litre
of tap water added for each of the three or four washes required. Pierce
a small 2mm hole in the bottom corner of each of the two bottles and
cover the hole securely with duct tape.
-
Pour the biodiesel into one of the wash bottles. Add the half-litre
of fresh water.
a.
Bubble-washing.
Use a small aquarium air-pump and an air-bubbler stone -- cut the threaded
lid off the wash bottles if necessary to get the stone in. After washing
and settling, drain off the water from the bottom of the bottle by removing
the duct tape from the hole. Block it again with your finger when it reaches
the biodiesel. Transfer the biodiesel to the second wash bottle, add fresh
water and wash again. Clean the first bottle and replace the duct tape.
Repeat until finished
b.
Stirring
If you have a small enough paint stirrer and a variable-speed drill, cut
the lids off the bottles as above to accommodate the stirrer. Stir until
oil and water are well mixed and appear homogenous. Settle for two hours
or more, drain as above for bubble-washing, repeat until finished.
If you don't have a stirrer, don't cut the lids off the wash bottles.
Add the biodiesel and the water as above. Screw the cap on tightly. Turn
the bottle on its side and roll it about with your hands until oil and
water are well mixed and homogenous. Settle, drain as above for bubble-washing,
repeat until finished.
10. Allow Water and Oil To Separate
11. Remove Water Layer
12. Transfer To Storage Container
13. Allow Biodiesel To Dry
-
When it's clear (not colourless but translucent), it's dry and ready
to use. It might clear quickly, or it might take a few days or up to
a week. If you're in a hurry, heat it gently to 120 deg F and allow
to cool.
14. Finally- Fill Fuel Tank
< next -- turn your solar car into a backup generator >
Richard Factor, an electrical whiz,
explains this creative hack on priups.com. “With a full tank,”
he says, “you can continuously operate several appliances for a
few days.” Proceed at your own risk.
1.
Go under the hatch.
-
Locate the batteries under the mat beneath the car’s rear hatch.
- Attach
a 2-foot-long, heavy-gauge cable to the relay terminals on the hybrid’s
(larger) “traction” battery.
- Affix
a heavy-duty, 75-amp, plug-style connector to the other end.
2. Build a new circuit box.
- Wire
the stuff in your home that you can’t live without – like
your fridge and Playstation – to a separate breaker box. In an
emergency, you don’t want to guess which breakers should be on
or off – and the car battery isn’t strong enough to power
everything in a McMansion.
- Installation
requires cutting drywall, mounting the box, rerouting some wires, and
running out a 230-volt plug to power the new breaker box. Consider hiring
an electrician.
3. Connect the car to the house.
- Purchase
a commercial-strength uninterruptible power supply.
- Insert
the new circuit box’s 230-volt plug into the UPS, and power the
UPS by plugging its own 230-volt plug into a clothes-dryer-style home
outlet.
- Run
positive and negative wires from the UPS battery to two heavy-duty diodes;
do the same with another wire running between the diodes and 175-amp
plug that connects to the car’s plug. (The diodes keep electricity
from flowing from your hose to your car.) The UPS is in the loop to
help convert the car’s 210-240-volt DC power into a home’s
AC power.
4.
Now you’re ready: If the grid goes down, connect the plugs, fire up
the solar car, and feel the power.
This
information "turn your solar
car into a backup generator", was compiled
from: WIRED magazine (August 2006), www.biodieselcommunity.org, www.journeytoforever.org,
www.biodieselnow.com, and en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biodiesel

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